This is an article I submitted to the Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) for their Commodore's Bulletin. Enjoy!
British Virgin Islands: November 17th, 2014
through May 16th 2015
Robin and I arrived at Nanny
Cay Marina in Tortola, BVI after having made our first ever Atlantic crossing
aboard our new to us boat. We
participated in the ARC Caribbean 1500 Rally which provided us considerable
training and plenty of help with preparations. The boat performed very well
crossing from Portsmouth, VA to the BVI in 10 ½ days and the sail was very easy
with mostly calm to mild seas and little wind to speak of … except that which
was seemingly always on the nose. J
The Caribbean 1500 organizers had everything arranged for us when we arrived
and customs was even on site saving us from waiting for me to take a taxi ride
to town.
After our arrival we spent a few days acquainting ourselves
with the Nanny Cay area and meeting some of the other participating sailors for
social events. We received an excellent
chart briefing from Kevin, the owner of Horizon Yacht Charters and I took four
pages of notes about getting around in the BVIs. We were very excited to be spending the
winter here instead of just a chartered week.
While we had a glancing familiarity with the Islands, this was to be an
adventure that would afford us a deeper look at the people, facilities and
opportunities around the area.
At Nanny Cay Marina we primarily spent our time socializing,
exploring and cleaning/fixing up the boat.
Nanny Cay is a full service complex second only to the big marina in
downtown Road Town as far as facilities are concerned. Within the confines of the marina area are a
full service restaurant (Peg Leg’s), a beach bar, a smaller café (Gennaker’s) a
Rite Way grocery outlet, Budget Marine, Blue Water Divers shop, Horizon Yacht
Charters, BVI Yacht Sales, a small but well stocked parts, pumps and filters
store, an electronics and watermaker store, a full service machine shop, a sail
loft, a hotel, a spa/salon and a taxi stand.
Fuel, water, electricity and ice at the docks (the dock hands will
deliver ice to you) and you can contact Mr. Thomas to have propane bottles
refilled for around $50US including pickup and delivery.
During our 6 month stay in the BVI, Nanny Cay was more or
less our ‘home’ port for anything we needed in terms of assistance and
maintenance. We short-hauled once and
hired a diver once; both events were professionally handled and my expectations
were met. Advice in any dealings in the Islands is to firmly set the price for services
before engaging the person or company providing the services.
On the occasion that we required assistance (broken bow
thruster) the staff members at Nanny Cay were extremely good at handling our dilemma. They handle and dock more boats in a week
than most sailors will dock in a year. They were professional, quick and
consummately courteous. The Dockmaster,
Brendan, is first rate and I cannot recommend him highly enough. Dock facilities are nice; floating docks with
metal treads, lit power posts and water taps at each slip.
Nanny Cay is a very busy marina. On three occasions we called in, on impulse,
while underway and requested a slip only to find they were booked solid.
Reservations are pretty much a must with 3 to 5 days lead time being about the
minimum. Reservations by phone at 284-494-2512
or on their website (which we used successfully several times) at
http://www.nannycay.com.
The entry is well marked with buoys, entrance depth exceeds
12 feet. Dockside depth exceeds 9 feet and the only place to worry about is if
you go wide while in the marina and wander into the mooring area to the west of
the docks. It is shallow (6 feet or
less) so stay as close to the “T” heads as comfortable.
Our overall experience at Nanny Cay has been very good.
During our 6 months in the BVI we overnighted there perhaps 5 or 6 times and
each experience was consistently favorable.
Find Devon at the Gennaker Café or the Beach Bar and have
“the best on the Islands, mon” … no matter what you order J
Peter Island was
our first hop. This is a popular resort and has a rather high end beach,
restaurant, resort hotel and mooring field.
The beauty is that you can anchor or take a mooring in nearby Great
Harbour and after a short hike enjoy many of the same amenities along a
beautiful stretch of beach with an amazing view of the fabled “Dead Chest”
(yes, named for the “15 men on a dead man’s chest..” song) Island. We enjoyed a few great days along the beach
enjoying some great drinks, tasty pizza and on a Wednesday afternoon we were
entertained by a fun steel drum band.
Well worth the short hike from the Great Harbor mooring
field, Peter Island Resort is a great spot to kick back and enjoy the sights,
water, food and entertainment of the islands.
Norman Island,
with “The Indians” and “The Caves” snorkeling area are among the most popular
stops for tourists and week-long charter boats.
The Pirate’s Bight restaurant has been rebuilt into a more modern
version of a bar/restaurant and we somehow felt it had lost some of its charm
from the days of rough wooden stools and a sand floor. The restaurant serves tasty meals however,
but we didn’t return there because of the modernization; it now has the feel of
any other resort restaurant and while we enjoyed it, it did not have the same
enchantment.
While in the Bight, one can visit “Willie T’s”, a floating
restaurant with a reputation for some pretty amazing parties. Alas, our moods did not coincide with their
particular brand of festivities and we left without getting a first-hand taste
of things there. Maybe some day ...
Cooper Island
Resort is also a popular, very popular, restaurant stop for the charter
boats. We made only one attempt to find
mooring space there, but as we passed through the full up mooring field and
turned around for another pass, we spotted no less than four more charter
catamarans heading in to the same mooring field. It must’ve been a banner day, but we did not
get into the mix and I cannot report on the facilities or amenities there. There does not seem to be the needed capacity
(maybe by design) to handle everyone who wants to come visit.
Trellis Bay is across the Sir Francis Drake Chanel and on
the north side of Beef Island. We
arrived to find a very large mooring field with plenty of available spots and
room to anchor further out. Moorings are
$30 per night, which is pretty standard among all the mooring fields. A boat will come to collect in the late
afternoon, or relatively early the following morning.
Several restaurants and a pretty cool crafts shop are to be
found on the shore. There is also a moderately well stocked grocery store. We had good meals at both “The Last Resort”
and “De Loose Mongoose”. It was fun to
tour the craft store, where the owner may be wheeling or firing a new clay
piece.
The beach dinghy docks are quite literally a three block
walk to the Beef Island Airport (EIS) so if you are picking up or dropping off
family or crew, this saves a cab ride. There is an ATM in the airport terminal,
one of the few to be had on the Islands.
We ran hard aground on a deceptively long and shallow shoal
extending between the island where “The Last Resort” restaurant and the
beach. It wasn’t actually a huge issue,
as we ran aground in our dinghy, but we did have to row out of the very shallow
water. Later that evening, from our
vantage on the roof of “De Loose Mongoose” we watched as a chartered sloop hit
the same reef at some speed. Fortunately
he was able to back off it. The tip is to stay in the mooring field when
rounding the little spit of land in the middle of the bay.
Jason, the SSCA Station Host was at work that evening so we
didn’t get must past the introductions, but it was good to meet him
nonetheless.
Marina Cay, just a short hop across from Trellis Bay, is a
very popular tourist and charter spot with easy to grab moorings. The Cay is a
small island with a great history. Purchased for $80 back in the 1930’s by a
starry eyed couple whose crowning achievement is a small house with a cistern
up on the hill, there is now a Pusser’s Store and restaurant as well as fuel,
showers, trash, laundry and a walkway to the old house. Part of the old house is still used as an entertainment
venue and we enjoyed the mini-bar and a first rate solo guitarist. The view and
the sunsets are very nice indeed.
Rounding Tortola on the north side we passed Cane Garden Bay
and decided we would press on to Soper’s Hole. I shied away from entering Cane
Garden because of our nearly 7 foot draft. Our first visit was via Taxi from
Soper’s Hole and we hiked the beach and streets exploring the area. Highlights for us were Quito’s, Myett’s and
the Callwood family distillery. Quito’s is a hopping bar and grill with live
music most nights. Myett’s is a more
restaurant than bar, with specials and happy hours running off and on all week.
The Callwood family distillery is worth the hike; its primary claim to fame
being that it has been a family-owned operation for three-hundred odd years.
The inside of distillery shows it, with dirt floors and hand-hewn timbers. A
flight of 5 different rums is …wait for it … $1. You are, however, kind of expected to pick
out a couple of your favorites and take some home. It wasn’t hard to deal with that one.
We thoroughly enjoyed our afternoon there, and took note
that at 3:00 P.M. the beach was packed with people but by 4:15 we pretty much
had the run of the place. It seems the cruise ships folks had all left and it
was time for the locals to get rolling.
That’s something we came to appreciate, as we started asking around
about when cruise ship would be in port and regularly avoided the
high-tourist-density areas when we could. The cab drivers and shop owners were
always well informed about cruise ship arrivals.
The next morning we brought Adagio back over and found my
fears unfounded. There was ample depth and the entrance was pretty easy. When we arrived, the water was relatively
calm and we enjoyed the afternoon at Quito’s again listening to a band we had
become familiar with the previous day. At one point the band was playing a bit
that allowed each member to play a little solo and we clapped and cheered for
Scott, the keyboard player we had met and chatted with the previous day. The folks at the neighboring table asked us
“Is that your son?” It was a good
chuckle and here again, we met and enjoyed some new company for the afternoon.
During the evening, however, the wind and waves shifted and
we began to pick up some of the “North Swell” that Cane Garden Bay is known
for. The night was pretty rolly, but not
completely unacceptable and we sailed out the next morning thankful for a bit
softer night ahead.
Jost Van Dyke was
our next stop and we eventually visited three or more times during our BVI
stay. Our preference was to moor in
Great Harbour (not to be confused with the Great Harbor in Peter Island). This
area has a stretch of relatively rough beach, but it is populated by several
“staple” attractions including the renowned “Foxy’s” Bar and Restaurant and
Corsair’s. There are several other local
attractions including Ali Baba’s (where you can, of course, have a “Baba-Que”
Chicken dinner) a small grocery and chandlery (and I mean small) and, a couple
of blocks off the main street, a bakery with some pretty amazing breads.
White Bay is just around the point from Great Harbour. We did not take our boat in there because
the moorings were jammed with charter boats, the depth is ‘supposed’ to be good
enough but I did not have firsthand local knowledge, and the swell was rather
big. We chose to just hop a $5 per
person taxi from Great Harbor to White Bay.
When we arrived and saw how much trouble some folks were having,
especially trying to get on and off shore with their dinghies, we were glad
we’d made that decision.
On White Bay are, again, several well-known island
attractions. The Soggy Dollar Bar, so
named because at one time you could only access the bar by anchoring out and
swimming in to shore, is perhaps the main attraction. It may be outright sacrilegious to say that
we did not like their pain killers as much as we liked those at a couple of
other places, but the Soggy Dollar does have the claim to fame that they
invented them. Down the beach are other
beach bars including “Coco Loco’s” (look for our “graffiti” on their writing
wall), the “One Love” café and a Roti (Indian curry wrapped in a tortilla)
place. If you hike across the rocks you
can reach “Ivan’s Stress Free Bar” which is unique in its own sense and is also
associated with a nice stretch of beach designated for tent camping. Cruise ships will set up on-beach events
occasionally so a portion of the beach will be ‘reserved’ for the buffet and
the enjoyment of the passengers.
We then found what we would call the jewel of Jost Van Dyke
and that is Little Harbor (Garner Bay).
When Great Harbour and White Bay were jammed with boats, there were
ample mooring balls and quite waters in Little Harbor. We made the grab and hopped in the dinghy to
go sign in and pay our fee. We met a
wonderful lady at “Abe’s” when we checked in for the night and, in typical BVI
style, helped us by opening up her little grocery store especially for us. We saw a sight dockside that I will always
remember; that of the water teeming with small, slender fish so tick in numbers
it looked exactly like sea grass on the bottom.
It was fascinating to see a gazillion small fish in such a concentrated
space.
We took the dinghy to the other side of the bay and found
“Sydney’s Peace and Love Café”. We arrived just in time for them to start
preparing the lobster for dinner and Robin got to hold one for a while. After that she said we couldn’t eat there
since she’d “bonded with dinner”. Still,
we wandered around for a bit, found probably the most well stocked T-Shirt shop
in the Islands and enjoyed a couple of adult drinks at Sydney’s bar. It’s a little ‘different’ there, as they
don’t really have a bartender, so you kind of make your own drinks, write it
down on a spiral notebook and settle up when a staff member comes by. I wanted a blended drink called a
“Bushwhacker” so I got help from a staff member … who made about 4 servings at
once … and set the blender in the
freezer in case I wanted to re-blend it later.
I did J. After paying and saying goodbye we settled in
for a nice, quiet evening.
Sandy Cay is just
northeast of Little Harbour and is a very small island with a mild to moderate
surf and a few moorings available for day use.
The island has a very cool nature walk around the perimeter and the
scenery is wonderful. The geckos and lizards
are everywhere and you can hear them skittering through the underbrush as you
walk along.
Virgin Gorda, by
far our favorite spot in the BVI, is diverse and interesting from end to end.
Starting from the North Sound, the famous Bitter End Yacht Club is a full featured
marina, resort complex and tourist attraction.
There is a pool, a full service restaurant, a beach bar, a pizza café, a
dive shop, water sports rental, a small grocery store with fresh pastries
(which sell out early), a clothing and souvenir shop and nice walkways all
along the beach. Snorkeling is good if
the surf is low and there are hiking trails through the hills.
Close by and reachable by water taxi or dinghy, Saba Rock is
a very small resort with a hopping happy hour and nice restaurant. An interesting and fun diversion, at 5:00
P.M. a staff member will bring a bucket of fish food to the dock and feed the
anxiously waiting tarpon. Sometimes they will let children feed the fish which
is always a thrill for them. They have a
small enclosed fish viewing are on the grounds and they have a rather ominous
looking eel that lives there. I think he’s pretty spoiled though so not really
a threat to fingers J
A hiking trail will take you to Byras Creek Resort, about a
mile away from Bitter End. The view from their restaurant is incredible and if
you hike further, beach-side is very cool with a large chess set, beach side bar
and just a short walk away, a group of rescued horses tended to by the resort
staff. You can arrange an ‘encounter’ with
the horses and may even be able to ride one.
If you choose to dinghy over from Bitter End, you can tie up at the Fat
Virgin Café and enjoy a nice lunch as well.
Leverick Bay Resort was
probably the highlight of our entire stay in the BVI. Anchoring is good and the moorings are very
well serviced. The staff was beyond compare and the resort has some
entertaining activities weekly. In
season (after Christmas) Pirate Michael Beans puts on a family friendly
minstrel show each Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday evening. Be prepared to sing along, as it a fun
show. On Friday evenings, the beach
barbeque will satisfy your hunger and the Moko Jumbie Dancers will wow you with
their talents.
The Leverick Bay Restaurant is very nice, perhaps a true 4 star
establishment with 3 star pricing. We
enjoyed several meals there, including Thanksgiving dinner and were never
disappointed. We found the burgers and appetizers at the beachside restaurant
very good as well. The resort office is where you go to rent a car, call a taxi
or get tokens to run the machines in their laundry facilities.
We had some minor difficulty when we spent a few days at
their slip however, as it is open to some fairly big swell and will be a rough
ride considering you’re at a dock (use more than one snubber!). We also had an electrical issue which we
eventually decided might be a current leak there at the dock. Management was very responsive to us and
tried to help out. The dock master and
hands are all very professional and we had a great time overall at the
marina.
Just up the hill via taxi or car is a small barbeque
restaurant called “Hog Heaven”. Do not miss this place. The food is unique, but
the view is simply take your breath away stunning. Overlooking the North Sound you can see
Anegada as well as Tortola from your table. It is windy up there though so hang
on to your hat.
Further south on Virgin Gorda, famous tourist sites like the
“Baths” await. Frequented by cruise ships, it can get crowded clambering
through the rocks and caves but it is still worth it to see the beautiful and
interesting rock formations. The water
at Devil’s Bay is good for snorkeling and swimming, but there are a couple of
better ones immediately adjacent and less frequented by the tourists (Spring Bay
and Little Trunk Bay). Regardless of how
you arrive, pay attention to the flags hoisted by the Park Service. The Red Flag really does mean dangerous
conditions. Surf pounding through those rocks and corridors can quickly
overpower and injure a swimmer.
Spanish Town is
the main business area of Virgin Gorda.
It has several very good restaurants including our favorites “The Rock”
(and “Treehouse”), “Coco Maya”, and the “Pavillion Restaurant” at Little Dix
Bay Resort. Our favorite breakfast spot
was the restaurant at Fischer’s Cove with a beautiful view. We enjoyed several
other spots on Virgin Gorda including the “Mine Shaft” restaurant, just a short
distance from what turned out to be a very interesting tourist attraction
called the “Copper Mine” (lots of history there). One of our favorite acquaintances on Virgin
Gorda was Marcus at the Bath and Turtle Restaurant, adjacent to the Spanish
Town marina called Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor.
Please look him up and say “hi” for us.
Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor is a full service marina with a
large grocery store, well supplied chandlery, 50 ton travel lift, dive shop and
a small ‘shopette’ mall. The slips are wide and secure and the facilities are
very nice overall. We had two occasions
to need service there and received excellent and prompt attention from Jeff
Moore at “The Workbench”.
West End/Soper’s
Hole. After leaving Virgin Gorda, we
traveled along the north shore of Tortola nonstop to West End/Soper’s Hole. We
made this journey 3 or 4 times to meet or drop off guests connecting with the
ferry to St. Thomas. It is still
considerably less expensive to fly in to St. Thomas compared to Beef Island.
This is a fact know by the Tortola Tourism folks but not fixed yet. In the meantime, arriving in St. Thomas,
catching a cab to the ferry terminal and purchasing a ferry ticket is still
collectively less expensive than airfare to Beef Island. However, if the money means less than the
convenience, entering country through the airport at Beef Island is faster and
easier than from off the ferry and the airport is quite close to the mooring
field at Trellis Bay meaning no taxi, no ferry and a time saving element. All of our guest except one have opted for
St. Thomas though just because the airfare is significantly less.
Soper’s Hole is a complete community unto itself. Technically located on Frenchman’s Key it is
a very busy mooring field with only deep water anchoring available (20+ meters)
on a rocky bottom. There are a few boats
anchored there but the majority pick up the moorings. This can be tricky as well because the
mooring field gets full and there are boats prowling around like drivers in a
Wal Mart parking lot some times. Arriving
early in the day (before 1 P.M.) will alleviate some of that stress.
The complex has a complete boatyard with haulout, but very
little storage space. There are several
places to eat including “Scaramouche” which is a unique Italian eclectic
restaurant unlike anything I have experienced before. The staff is completely
Italian and they know their fare and wines very well. Next is a Pusser’s restaurant and company
store then “De Best Cup” café and coffee shop with great breakfasts. Around the bay is the “Fish n Lime”
restaurant with pretty decent fare and enjoyable specials. The grocery store is well stocked, there is a
dive shop, clothing and souvenir stores and a day spa. There are no laundry facilities on sight
requiring about a ½ mile walk to the coin laundry down the road. There is no
ATM there either. The water was usually
pretty smooth even in higher breezes. We
did have one gusty day that flipped several tethered dinghies over. It was an adventurous afternoon. Thankfully,
we have an electric motor so it was fine after righting the dinghy. Our
neighbors were at it for several hours before they got their 2 stroke motor
going again. Thankfully there were no
reports of lost boats of parts that day.
The best restaurant in the whole BVI is at Frenchman’s
Key. If you go with 4 people, order 4
different appetizers and 4 different entrees. You’ll want to try everything. Ask Karen about Cherry M&Ms …She’ll
understand.
IN SUMMARY:
GO! It is a fun and
interesting place to visit. We can
wholeheartedly recommend an organized rally for a safer crossing and to help
negotiate your arrival process.
Tell the locals you are a cruiser. They see so many cruise ship passengers and
week-long-charter people that they will welcome a cruiser with a different
view. Learn their names, share your
story visit them more than once and see if they don’t remember you too.
Be prepared for the bugs.
Most common are the no-seeums and mosquitos. We had no trouble with anything else but when
the wind falls off they come out and are fierce. Almost all bars and restaurants keep cans of
“Off” handy but there are a couple of local repellents sold in dive shops that
work very well using natural ingredients.
I had no success with wearing repellent bracelets because the wind won’t
allow anything to linger.
Rent a car instead of taking a taxi. We discovered, especially on Virgin Gorda,
that a taxi ride would be the same for two people as the price of a rental car
for the day. Don’t be scared about driving on the wrong side of the road
either. It’s not hard J
We had only one instance of a charted depth being wrong and
that was in the water near Fort Burke (near Road Town in Tortola). Once we got
stuck, we suddenly had help from two dinghies to get us loose. People are
really willing to help. Most of the channels we used were very clearly marked
(Anegada being the exception).
Water can be purchased at most of the Marinas. It ran between 15 and 30 cents per gallon
depending on the location. Leverick Bay
Marina offers 100 gallons of water and a bag of ice free with each night on a
paid mooring or in a slip. Dockside water everywhere is desalinated (RO) and
consistently tested as very good quality.
There are scant few ATMs on the Islands. When you find one, remember it. We found ours at the Beef Island Airport from
Trellis Bay, at the banks in downtown Road Town and at the bank in Spanish
Town. As far as we know none of the
resorts had one.
The laundry facilities we found used only cold water. Some
were pricier than others. There were a couple on the marina (Leverick Bay,
Marina Cay and Village Cay) and some required a long walk or short cab ride
(Spanish Town, Soper’s Hole). We did not inquire about facilities at the
resorts; they were likely reserved for guests only.
There is a local magazine “Limin’ Times” that has weekly
line ups of social and entertainment events.
It is stocked at most businesses.
We are going back. Perhaps we will see you there!
Gary and Robin Wells
s/v Adagio